Gravel Bike Stems: Everything You Need to Know
Your guide to finding the perfect gravel stem.
Contents:
Introduction
Types of Gravel Bike Stems
Why Stem Length Matters
Choosing the Right Gravel Bike Stem
Ritchey Stems for Gravel Bikes
Introduction
There’s little else more satisfying than having your gravel bike ride just the way you want it to. To get what you want from your gravel bike, you should carefully consider the parts that make up the sum. Whether it’s comfort you’re after or better performance, a lot can depend on your gravel bike stem, which connects your handlebar to the steerer tube and consequently, to the rest of your bike. Gravel bike stem length and angle affect the way your bike handles on varying terrain. A stem is also one of the easiest, most economical upgrades you can make to your gravel bike, and it can have a tremendous impact on cockpit control and rider fatigue. When choosing a stem specifically for gravel riding, there are a few factors to think about with respect to you and your riding environment. Ultimately think of your stem as a vital component for customizing your ride.
Types of Gravel Stems
- Positive/negative rise: measured in positive or negative degrees, rise refers to the angle of the stem relative to a horizontal axis. A gravel rider would choose a positive stem angle for a more upright position, which is more comfortable for bikepacking or long-distance gravel rides. A negative stem angle puts the rider in the lower, more aerodynamic position that’s favored by gravel racers. Stem angles typically range from six to 20 degrees and can be flipped to achieve a positive or negative rise. Ritchey gravel bike stems range from six to 30 degrees.
- Integrated: an integrated stem is combined with the handlebar to result in a single component that integrates the bar with the stem. A gravel rider would choose this option for aesthetics, weight savings, and aerodynamics. What’s gained in simplicity with this component may be lost in personalization since the rider has to accept a predetermined stem angle and bar orientation. However, this type of combination can also work beautifully with internally routed frames to conceal cables/wires/hose for an overall streamlined look.
- Internally routed: this is a modern stem that’s in line with current trends in frame design. This type of stem routes up to four cables into an enclosed channel on the underside of the stem or inside the stem body to cleanly flow the cables back toward the frame. A rider who tends toward gravel racing may opt for an internally routed stem for its slight aerodynamic advantage and overall streamlined look.
- Adjustable: as the name suggests, this stem has been designed to enable the rider to personalize the stem angle. The stem shaft is interconnected with a precision broached clamp and allows for a +/-55° range of height adjustability.
Many racers are of the opinion that a longer, lower (negative stem angle) equals aerodynamics and/or higher performance. Performance is a balance of aerodynamics and the rider’s ability to generate power in a given position. If a rider cannot generate power consistently in a given position (usually because they are too low or too long) then it doesn’t matter how “aero” they are.
Stem length also plays a key role in how your gravel bike handles.
Why Stem Length Matters
Stem length (and angle) determines your bar’s position relative to the saddle, which has the greatest effect on your upper body. It can potentially affect the angle of the torso, front-to-back weight distribution on the bike, and perceived pressure on the hands. A correct bike stem length should allow for a balance of correct cockpit length, posture, and control/handling of the bike.
TIP: Sometimes just changing the number of spacers below the stem may be all that’s needed to achieve your ideal position.
Changing your stem length will put into motion a series of changes that — for better or for worse — could have a long-term impact on the way you ride. So, before you knock over that row of dominoes, take a few minutes to read the following paragraphs.
Choosing the Right Gravel Stem
A professional bike fit will take all the guesswork out of choosing a stem. A bike fit will account for variables such as saddle choice, how you sit on that saddle, strength, flexibility, and probably most importantly, how you plan to use your bike (i.e. gravel racing, bikepacking, recreational riding, etc). Your fit data plus your preferred riding style will yield conclusive gravel stem recommendations. All that’s left to do is pick the one that matches your recommended specs and budget. Or you could carry out your own analysis by following these instructions.
DIY stem selection: the step-by-step method
Carefully selecting a gravel bike stem can lead to better race results, more comfort, and even pain relief, so taking your stem seriously can radically alter your performance on the bike. Even the most novice cyclist should get familiar with his/her/their stem in order to make an informed decision about stem length. These steps will help guide that process.
- First, you’ll need to know three key details: the length and diameter of your current stem, and your handlebar diameter.
- Your stem length may be printed somewhere on the stem, or you can measure it yourself from the center point of the headset cap to the center of your stem’s handlebar clamp.
- The stem’s diameter may also be inscribed somewhere on the stem, which will save you the hassle of either looking up your fork’s steerer tube diameter or measuring it yourself. To measure it yourself, loosen the top cap, loosen the stem bolts, pop off the cap and the stem and, using either a caliper or a ruler, measure the stem’s inner diameter.
- To determine your handlebar diameter, you can use a caliper or, in the absence of that, you can take a flexible metric tape measure and wrap it around your bar on either side of the stem to measure the circumference. Now divide the resulting number by Pi (3.14) to get your bar’s diameter. Most modern handlebars have a circumference of 31.8mm while older bars can have a 25.4mm (mtb) or 26.0mm (road) circumference.
- TIP: Knowing your bar’s diameter will also help when choosing handlebar bags.
- Now comes the fun part: choosing your stem! Whether you’re going longer or shorter, no more than a 10mm difference in either direction is recommended since adapting to a greater change may produce negative effects. Ritchey gravel stems range from 40-140mm. You’ve got options.
- Next up is deciding your desired handlebar height, which will help determine the angle of the stem and the number of spacers needed below it.
- How much you want to spend will naturally factor into your purchasing decisions. Start by narrowing your focus to gravel stems. From there you can filter your choices based on stem material, model, performance level, and price.
- Commit! A new stem can be life changing and best of all, it doesn’t demand a huge investment or a complicated installation.
Ritchey Stems for Gravel Bikes
To Ritchey, the stem is an all-important component that warrants exhaustive research and development during the design phase. As a result, what defines a Ritchey stem is its material composition, 3D Net Net Shape Forging (for some models), internal routing, bar clamp system, faceplate design, stem angle, and steerer clamp design.
Material composition
- 6061 aluminum alloy, the material used in RL1 and Comp stems.
- 2014 aluminum alloy, higher level material used to craft Ritchey proprietary WCS stem designs.
- Carbon Matrix, forged 7075 aluminum with a carbon exoskeleton makes the WCS Carbon Matrix C220 84D 12% stiffer than stems made from aluminum alloys.
- Carbon fiber, high modulus carbon fiber monocoque construction, used in the SuperLogic C260 84D Stem.
3D Net Shape Forging
This forging process forces aluminum alloy’s grain to follow the product shape for greater structural strength. This process is used in all of Ritchey’s WCS and Comp stems.
Internal routing
Featured on the Ritchey Switch Stem, cables for rear brakes, shifter, and electronics are channeled on the stem’s underside or inside the stem body to cleanly route cables through the headset and into frames designed for internal routing.
Ritchey handlebar clamp systems
Almost all stems (except for integrated ones) need to securely attach to the handlebar without damaging the bar. Ritchey has a few different clamp designs that vary according to bar clamp circumference and faceplate width — both of which contribute to a stem’s clamping surface area. Bar clamp circumference refers to how much in degrees the stem wraps around the handlebar. The more clamping surface area a stem covers, the greater strength it has for staying in place without stressing the bar with excessive torque.
TIP: Ritchey’s Liquid Torque creates extra friction between two surfaces, allowing tightening torque to be reduced by up to 30%. Less tension on sensitive parts of your bike, like carbon fiber bits, means longer product life and more reliability.
Here are the stem features that set Ritchey stems apart:
- C220 – 220° clamping surface area offers a lighter faceplate and stem body without sacrificing strength or stiffness.
- C260 – 260° clamping surface area around the handlebar offers an almost seamless integration while reducing faceplate load. Not all Ritchey handlebars are compatible with this type of clamp so it’s important to check the product specifications for compatibility.
- 4-Axis Clamp – 180° clamping surface with faceplate designed for security to fit most budgets.
- 4-Axis-44 Clamp – 180° clamping surface with wider 44mm faceplate where the bolt spacing increases stiffness.
- Hinge Clamp – With two rear-facing bolts, the hinged clamp adds aerodynamic benefits and a sleek aesthetic.
- 4-Axis Adjustable Stem – A forged shaft is interconnected with a broached clamp to let the rider customize his/her/their stem angle with a +/- 55° rise.
Ritchey stem angle
It’s important to check and see if the stem has a flip flop design. Most of Ritchey’s gravel stems (except for the Switch stem) can be installed with either a positive or negative rise. 84D stems have a +/- 6° rise; 73D stems have a +/- 17° rise; 25D stems have a +/- 25° rise; and 30D stems have a +/- 30° rise.
Steerer clamp design
Steerer clamps are designed for minimal weight or for improved aesthetics and clean lines when paired with spacers and headsets. Steerer clamps can have two or three clamping bolts for safety and redundancy. The cut for enabling clamping can be straight or diagonal. A diagonal cut, or bias cut, dissipates clamping force over a greater surface area of the steerer tube to reduce stress per square centimeter.
Out of all the things you could change on your gravel bike, the stem may be one of the most subtle yet effective upgrades for improving comfort and/or performance. This post provides some guidance for how to choose a gravel bike stem. Visit the Gravel page to find your next stem, as well as other components to support your ride.
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