Bikepacking through Morocco’s Past and Present on the Route of Caravans

For centuries Morocco has been a prize: the jewel of Atlantic sea trade; the final destination for traders crossing the Sahel; a territory to be colonized; and now, a land of contrasts to be experienced by bike. As part of an investigative project, Anselm Pahnke has been following the Route of Caravans on a fully loaded gravel bike weighing around 20-23 kilograms (44-51 lbs.).

Be careful when reading this report because — should you be inspired to go bikepacking in Morocco — just know that once you go there, there’s no going back to who you were before.

Anselm Pahnke first captured international attention with his award-winning documentary “Anderswo. Allein in Afrika” (Elsewhere. Alone in Africa), which absorbed audiences into a 414-day, 15,000-kilometer (9,321-mile) exploration of Africa by bike. The second time he arrested attention was when he left the hospital on his own following a nightmarish paragliding crash into a granite wall on Mont Blanc at 50 kph (31 mph). Doctors had told him that it would be years before he could walk again; he walked out after just a few months.

Anselm has traveled through 83 countries spanning four continents by bike, which most of us can’t relate to. For anyone who’s spent time consumed by their thoughts, however, Anselm has added up more than a calendar year in which he was all alone, pedaling across vast expanses of land, climates, and natural features that have had more impact on world history than the people who inhabit them. His experiences helped shape the way he thinks, so that now it’s his mind that’s in high demand. When he’s not riding, he maintains a rigorous schedule as a keynote speaker on heart, mind, and intuition.

Africa is the second largest continent behind Asia, and his 414-day trip from Cape Town, South Africa to Cairo, Egypt only fanned the flames of Anselm’s desire to explore more of the continent by bike. Morocco, that sliver of a country in the northwest corner of Africa, intrigued him. Then a German television network approached him about researching a new documentary concept focused on migration to Europe.

“Traveling by bike allows me to connect with people’s stories in a way that other modes of transport simply can’t.” — Anselm Pahnke, March 2025

The question doesn’t have a simple answer, since Morocco’s appeal is most often in the eye of the beholder. Morocco is where contrasts are deeply woven into the landscape, the culture, and the way of life there. Anselm split his trip into two stages to accommodate some work obligations back home in Germany. He started out in Tiznit, a city in the south, and crossed the country through the Anti-Atlas Mountains to within about 40 kilometers (25 miles) of the Algerian border, which has been closed since 1994.

“Riding through the country, you experience an ever-changing world — from the arid vastness of the Sahara, where the dunes shift with the wind, to the rugged, snow-covered peaks of the High Atlas,” Anselm said. “One day, you’re pedaling through an empty, silent desert, where the only movement comes from the wind shaping the sand. The next, you’re weaving through ancient medinas, where life pulses in narrow alleyways filled with the scent of spices and the calls of merchants.”

Google Maps Route and Ride with GPS

From the small oasis town of Mhamid, Anselm and his traveling partner, Tamo, turned north toward the High Atlas Mountains. They did this trip between February and April 2025 because, according to their research, this is the best time of year for cycling in Morocco. It’s not too hot in the lowlands, and the snow has just melted up in the mountains. Despite careful planning, they got caught in the heaviest snowstorm to hit the High Atlas in nine years. But Anselm is nothing, if not prepared for almost every weather condition, and he still believes that this timeframe is generally excellent for a bikepacking adventure.

To get an idea of the terrain, imagine pedaling on routes established throughout millennia by the padded feet of camels, horse and donkey hooves, and the leather-shod feet of nomads. In short, the riding surface was marked by the will of travelers, their pack animals, and the path of least resistance. The historical trade routes that once connected North Africa with the Sahel, the biogeographical region that spans Africa from Sudan to Mauritania, still shape the country today.

“Cycling along paths like the Route of Caravans, you sense the echoes of centuries-old journeys — nomads crossing the desert with camels, traders navigating the harsh terrain in search of markets, and modern-day shepherds guiding their flocks,” he explained. “These routes highlight Morocco’s dual identity: one foot set in the past, deeply connected to tradition, and the other embracing change, as seen in the growing number of bikepackers exploring its remote corners.”

Another striking contrast is the climate. While the southern plains can be oppressively hot, just a few days of riding northward or gaining elevation can bring bitter cold, which Anselm experienced firsthand as he pedaled through unexpected snow high up in the mountains.

Beyond the landscapes, the people embody these contrasts as well. Moroccan hospitality is legendary. Whether in a remote Berber village or a busy city, you’re met with generosity —an invitation to mint tea, a place to rest, or a warm meal. At the same time, life in the rural regions is harsh, shaped by the struggle for water, the challenges of agriculture, and the reality of economic hardship. The modern world is seeping in, yet many communities remain rooted in their ways, living much as they have for generations. Travel affords us the chance to have extraordinary experiences, like tasting a tangerine for the first time in its namesake city of Tangiers, losing oneself on purpose in the souks of Fez or Marrakesh, or connecting with locals, which was what drove Anselm to experience Morocco by bike.

“We arrived in a remote village in the Anti-Atlas late in the day, low on water and energy,” he said. “A local shepherd spotted us and invited us to his family’s home. They didn’t have much, but they insisted we stay for dinner and sleep under their roof. That night, we sat around a fire, shared stories through gestures and broken Arabic, and laughed more than I thought possible without a common language. Another memorable encounter was with a young man in the Draa Valley who was curious about our bikes. He told us how he dreams of exploring Morocco himself one day, but that economic hardship makes it difficult. We gave him one of our spare power banks and a solar light, and he gave us a handwoven bracelet in return — a quiet but powerful exchange that really moved me.”

Morocco may seem like it’s trailing in the wake of more industrialized nations, but straddling both past and present is what makes Morocco a unique — perhaps somewhat exotic, yet extremely safe place to ride a bike. Easy to get to from virtually everywhere in the world, once the comforts of Morocco’s famous cities (Casablanca, Marrakesh, Rabat) are behind you, what’s in front of you is, in essence, in the past as well. Stay curious and present to the continuous interplay between past and present, hardship and beauty, isolation and warmth. This is what makes Morocco such a captivating place to travel by bike. It’s not just a journey through space, but through time and culture — a deeply immersive experience that leaves a lasting impression.

Helpful tips for bikepacking in Morocco

When asked, Anselm willingly offered some logistical details about bikepacking in Morocco.

Getting there and away
“I flew into Agadir to start my journey through Morocco. For the return, I traveled by ferry from Tangier to Spain and continued by train. It was a beautiful way to connect two continents and to reflect on the journey.”

Daily expenses
“Without hotels, my daily expenses were around 6-9 euros. A night in a hotel (called a riad) cost roughly 10-15 euros. Every five days, we stayed in a hotel to freshen up.”

Replenishing supplies
“Morocco is a fantastic country for bikepacking. There’s very little traffic, the landscapes are incredibly diverse, and the climate is excellent. You don’t necessarily need a tent, as it’s easy to find safe places to sleep. Along my route, I found food and water at least every two days. The people were extremely friendly and always willing to help.”

Tire choice and equipment selection
“I used 29 x 2.4” tubeless tires with a moderate tread — good for both gravel and rocky singletrack. My setup included a steel frame bike, front roll bag, frame bag, and saddle pack. I carried a lightweight tent, sleeping bag, stove, water filter, and some essential tools. Electronics were minimal: just a camera, phone, solar panel, and GPS. Everything was optimized for efficiency, durability, and self-sufficiency.”

Going during Ramadan
“Traveling during Ramadan worked out surprisingly well. The main difference was that we were no longer invited for tea during the day, as we often were before Ramadan. However, when we arrived in towns, shop and restaurant owners would sometimes open just for us. I was mindful not to eat in front of people who were fasting; it felt disrespectful.”