- How do I tell the difference between a Shimano 10 speed and a Campy freehub body?
- Info on the Campy cassette lockrings
- Maximum weight limits
- Tire Direction
- How to remove a Ritchey freehub: (for Pro and Comp models only)
- How can I have my Ritchey frame repainted?
- Noise in the rear wheel
- Cleat Placement
- Reinstalling a Tension Adjustment Screw on V1 and V2 Pedals
- Cyclometer magnets and aero spokes
- What Cleats should I use?
Here is an image to tell the difference. Note the different shape splines.
NOTE: Campy expects lock ring to stay with the hub. All current 9 and 10 speed cassettes are sold without lockrings, as opposed to Shimano where every cassette comes w/ new lock ring.
** Campy has 3 different lockring diameter dimensions.
1. All 8sp = 29mm diameter, these cassettes were originally sold w/ lockrings.
2. Original version of Campy 9sp = 26mm; this was a completely new cassette body shape for Campy. The bodies are aluminum, not steel as on 8sp, and have deeper splines for the cogs. (NOTE: the deeper splines on an aluminum body hold up better than shallow splines on Shimano compatible aluminum bodies-galling). Note: these hubs use standard size axles AND are 10sp compatible.
3. New, 2001 and beyond, & oversize axle; Campy 10 sp hubs (2001 Record, Chorus, and Daytona, 2002 Record, Chorus, and Centaur) = 27mm; these hubs all have aluminum alloy axles, and can be identified by large wrench flats on left bearing cover end cap (f and r). The center of the hub bodies, (f and r) are also larger in diameter than earlier style described above.
As you can see this can be a compatibility nightmare. In reality there are 6 different lockrings. 11t cogs require smaller diameter than 12t or larger.
1. 8sp 29mm 12t
2. 8sp 29mm 11t (rare)
3. 9/10sp standard axle 26mm 12t
4. 9/10sp standard axle 26mm 11t
5. 9/10sp oversize axle 27mm 12t
6. 9/10sp oversize axle 27mm 11t
Ritchey framesets are designed for racing and performance riding. Ritchey frames are built to last and provide its user with a life time of trouble free riding. We receive calls every day from people who have had their Ritchey Bikes for 10 years or more who have never had any problems with their frames. Ritchey Frames, depending on the riders skills and finesse, can be amazing bikes but some riders may be happier with something better suited to their individual riding style.
Ritchey wheels: Generally speaking it comes down to physics. The heavier and stronger the material - the longer it will last. If a wheel is built from good materials *(which Ritchey wheels are) you can build them with fewer spokes and lighter rims. For stronger and more durable wheels more spokes and heavier rims are required. For example; a Ritchey DS wheel system with 16 spokes is going to be on average less durable and more prone to damage than a 36 spoke wheel with a 22mm cross section 500g rim.
Ritchey VFA (Vector Force Analysis) tread design is directional. For the proper tire performance, it should be indicated on the tire with an arrow imprinted on the sidewall that shows the rotation direction.
To remove the freehub, you are going to have to remove the cassette,then loosen the set screw spacer nut on the drive side, pop out the axel with a light tap of the mallet, (to the non drive side) then with a 12mm allen, go in from the non drive side and loosen the free hub. Ritchey offers a special 12mm Allen wrench to make re-installation easier. Please consult your dealer.
In the U.S., Ritchey recommends contacting our painter, Rick at D&D. He paints all the Ritchey frames and can bring yours back to original specs. You can give him a call at: phone; 510 278 2976, FAX;510 278 6553.
In the case you are unable to use D&D the stock paint colors for Ritchey frames are Dupont's RED 29198, WHT 55769, BLU 24160.
Usually the noise comes from the seal on the non-drive side. To really get in to in you have to take the cassette off, loose the lock nut on the drive-side hub spacer and pull it off. Then tap out the axel to the non-drive side. At this point, you can put some light oil on the seal. Put the whole thing back together with about a knife's edge of space on that non-drive side spacer. You should be noise free. That seal can get dry from time to time.
Ritchey recommends that you have your local bike shop assist with this set up. One of your main contact points with the bike come from your pedals and how your feet are aligned on the pedals will dictate proper pedaling. The cleats need to be aligned with how you fit on the bike to give you optimal power and to avoid injury. If, one of your feet goes around about, on average 80 times a minute (80 RPMs) and if you are locked onto the pedal at an incorrect angle etc, you can loose power and add stress on your ankles, knees, hips and back. It is worth your time to have your bike and especially your pedals/shoes fit to your bike.
The easiest way to re-install the tension screw is going to be to first release the tension from the springs. You do this but taking a fairly small flathead screwdriver and inserting it in front of where the retention claws meet on top of the pedal. (they form sort of a "V"where they meet). Hook the screwdriver behind the bolt that goes in through the side of the pedal body and holds the retention claws. Pullback on the screwdriver causing the retention claws to pull back and away from the pedal baseplate. If you have removed the 2 Phillips screws in the baseplate, the baseplate will now fall out. Now you should be able to re-install the tension screw. Reverse procedure to re-install the baseplate.
Your best bet is to get a Triathlon magazine or go to a multi-sports store bike shop. They usually have magnets for aero spokes. Your other option is to mount the magnet on the round section closer to the hub.Your cables will be longer but the computer functions the same and youwill have less rotational weight.